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Napoleone Villa's
The isle of Elba is well noted in Italy and the world over for it's natural beauty, and its richness of mineral ores found beneath the surface, Its notoriety is also bound to a name: Napoleon Bonaparte. Elba represented a place of brief exile for Napoleon where he reigned as Emperor for less than a year between 1814 and 1815 before escaping. From there he went on to fight the battle of Waterloo and after defeat was further exiled to the British island of St. Helena in the middle of the Atlantic.
Elba was suddenly found at the center of worldwide attention in April 1814 when with the Treaty of Fontainebleau Napoleon was exiled to the small island and given the title of Emperor and rule over the small land. Receiving sovereignty over the island Napoleon conducted himself in a way that suggests he intended to live out his days as ruler. This is supported by the detail in which he decorated his residences, the efficiency of his army and the strict protocol he imposed on the court.
All over Elba there are signs that attest to the frenetic activity that governed his ten-month course as ruler of his Elban empire. Amongst these we can document the mining activity, the projected steel plant, the organization of new hospital structures or improvement of older ones, care and selection over the vineyards, and the introduction of unusual horticulture such as olives and potatoes, all of which improved livability.
But it is at Portoferraio where the best conserved and concrete testimony to Napoleon's presence on Elba is visible. (May 3, 1814 February 26,1815)
VILLA SAN MARTINO
Beginning on the outskirts, the most famous villa is the Villa di S. Martino situated between woods and vineyards approximately 6 km from the center. Adapted by the emperor as a summer residence, the two-story manor is decorated with frescoes by Pietro Ravelli commissioned by Napoleon.
Rooms of interest: Napoleon's bedroom, La Sala di Consiglio (board-room), General Bertrand's apartment and the Egyptian room.
In 1851, the Prince Anatolio Demidoff, a distant relative of Napoleon, bought the house and enlarged it with a neoclassical structure that now serves as a museum-shrine and is a prestigious center for cultural events and exhibitions.
VILLA DEI MULINI
Returning to the center of the city we climb from the large parking lot at the foot of the Medicean bastions, through the arch of the Porta a Terra, via Sebastiano Lambardi e via del Carmine where stands the ex Carmine church of the hospital by the same name built in 1617 by the Marchese Corbello.
Continuing up Via V. Hugo, through the 16th century archway you arrive at the Palazzo dei Mulini (the Mill Palace) named for the former windmills that once occupied the site. This was the official residence of Napoleon and his court.
Rooms of interest: the office, the reception hall, the cloak-room (with the Napoleonic flag of Elba: white and red with three gold bees), the bedroom, the library with hundreds of volumes including the prestigious collection of Moniteur Universel from 1790 to 1813, the gallery, the officer's hall, and the first floor quarters of Napoleon's sister, Paolina Borghese.
At the side of the villa is the recently renovated ballroom, beneath the imposing structure of Forte Stella lies the garden with its statues and fountains. From the villa we descend towards the dock by way of the fortified Medicean walls and continue down Via Ferrandini where a head stone marks the memory of Donna Letizia the mother of Napoleon who had lived there for a time.
Half way up this steep road a cross street, Via della Misericordia, leads to a church by the same name. Housed in the museum annex is a bronze mask of Napoleon as well as a cast of his hand obtained in Sant'Elena by Dr. Antonmarchi, who performed the autopsy on the great exile.
Continuing down the renaissance staircase in red stone, and following alongside the Palazzo Municipale (where from May 3, 1814 Napoleon resided for some days), one arrives in the center of the city.
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PRENAPOLEONIC HISTORY
In March 1799, French troops were sent from Livorno to occupy Portoferraio. The citizens were initially hostile towards the occupants, but being able to rely on the approval of the governor and the sympathizing Jacobeans, the resistance was soon won. The men of the military sector remaining faithful to the Grand Duke were forced to embark for the continent, while the governor and the Jacobean fringe flaunted cockades and tri-color banners. A patriotic civic party was formed by conscription and the first of April the Tree of Liberty rose in the Piazza d'Arme (today known as Piazza della Republica). Succeeding the provisionary governor of the Republic was Luigi Lambardi, already the French consul in Portoferraio, who was mandated to organize the municipality in accordance with the French laws. Both the administration and the Jacobeans felt isolated and the National Guard had difficulty forming because of lack of volunteers. So with the threat that the evaders would be considered rebels, four companies were finally formed at the cost of City Hall. The citizens were exasperated by the poor behavior of the French troops who obliged the municipality to allow ordinary courts to judge and sentence the military. On the rest of the island, the few French forces met with unexpected resistance and after an ambush at Capoliveri, General Miollis, commander in chief of the troops stationed in Tuscany, arrived on Elba in order to suppress the revolt and ordered the sacking of the town. The attempt to take control of Longone failed because the Napolitan forces had garrisoned the town and supplies were able to arrive from the British by way of the sea and at the same time block to arrival of supplies to the French in Portoferraio. The troops from Longone who were joined by inmates and rebel Elbans drove the French back as far as the walls of Portoferraio devastating the surrounding countryside. After the revolt in Marciana it soon became clear that the French didn't have sufficient force to occupy the island. Monserrat, commander of the military sector of Portoferraio, was forced to surrender signing the truce in the Church of San Rocco in July 1799. Portoferraio was occupied briefly by Napolitan troops while awaiting the return of the Grand Duchy's administration.
After Napoleon's victory on the second coalition, the French returned to Tuscany and took control of the entire Elban territory. The strategic value of the island and the constant threat that the English could occupy it, made possession of Elba and its mines more important than ever to the French government. While the commander of the Elban military forces agreed to oppose any new attempt at occupation, an order from the King of Naples arrived in Longone commanding them to peacefully surrender. And so it happened. Fixon, commander in Portoferraio, on orders from the Grand Duke to retreat to Vienna, decided to resist and in May 1801, French troops coming from Corsica embarked on Longone on there way to Portoferraio. The French Parliament called for surrender, but it was refused. And so began the cannon fire from the French naval squadron and the battery set up in the Grotto.
Failing at a land attack and uselessly sending other members of the French parliament, Fixon called for a momentary ceasefire in order to receive orders from Vienna, but in reality he was counting on help from the English. Various fortunate sorties caused a lot of damage to the French batteries that were running low on provisions and munitions and were suffering from malaria caused by their proximity to the swamplands. With British reinforcements joining them in Prtoferraio, Fixon commanded all the citizens to fight to the death. The Peace of Amiens, signed by France and England, came about seven months into the siege, but it was ignored and took another six months until the governor decided to surrender after receiving express orders from the Grand duke Ferdinando III. It was finally in June 1802 that the French garrison could finally enter Portoferraio that was now annexed to France. On July 14, 1802, the Elbans, represented by deputies, were sworn into the French republic and Elba was able to send a representative to Paris. September 3, 1802, a delegation from Elba went to Napoleon to obtain an exemption from paying custom charges, specifically those on wine. They thanked Napoleon for giving them the distinctive benefit of having returned the territory to the French. Napoleon although welcoming them, naturally did not hide his discontent that they did not take part in the hostilities against the Victorious Nation of the French, but rather maintained neutrality that befitted them.
A General Commissioner (Briot) was nominated for Elba, Capraia, Pianosa, Plmaiola and Montecristo. Where it was possible, French law was modified according to local usage and the ports were exempt from customs duty. The military commander Rusca, originally from Piemonte, earned the esteem of the Elbans and so consequently the Corsican commissioner Galeazzini to who is owed the construction of bridges and roads on the island. Communication with the mainland was also increasing and so the postal service became more efficient. The French also thought about creating a method of extracting and working articulated iron in centers situated on the shores of the Mediterranean, but the didn't carry it out. In 1804 carried out a vote to proclaim Napoleon Emperor of France and out of 4587 votes, 4487 were favorable. In 1809, Elba became an under prefecture and was joined to the Department of the Mediterranean. The French judicial system was applied and the Napoleonic Code. The primary schools were under the charge of the municipalities, while the secondary schools could also be privately held. The clergy fell under the diocese of Ajaccio and the priests were able to continue teaching by conforming to the public school program. Every year ten students were chosen from the most deserving or from children of public functionaries to attend the French high school. In Portoferraio, the French domination also meant the return to working on the fortifications adhering to more modern standards, that provided for a defensive ring including Fort Saint Cloud at the mouth of the port to the English Fort Saint Hilaire and up to the small fort on Mount Albero. Amongst the French military to be remembered is Leopold Hugo, father of celebrated author Victor, who vacationed in Portoferraio as a child staying in a house on Via Buongusto, which today is known as Via Garibaldi.
NAPOLEON BONAPARTE
The isle of Elba is well noted in Italy and the world over for it's natural beauty, and its richness of mineral ores found beneath the surface, Its notoriety is also bound to a name: Napoleon Bonaparte. Elba represented a place of brief exile for Napoleon colored by many aspects.
He stayed there and also reigned there for less than a year between 1814 and 1815, then fled and went on to his defeat at Waterloo and then to the less comfortable exile on Sant'Elena in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
He arrived on Elba at the beginning of May 1814. Before, there had been the disastrous Russian Campaign and the defeat at Lipsia.
Napoleon's legacy on Elba is mostly displayed in two museums, housed in two buildings that were once Napoleon's residences: The Villa dei Mullino (the city residence in the historical center of Portoferraio) and The Villa Martino (the larger of the two a few kilometers from the island capital in the direction of Procchio Marina do Campo). Napoleon also bequeathed some books and paintings to the island.
NAPOLEON ON 'ELBA
On March 31, 1814, the coalition forces of England, Prussia, Russia, and Austria entered Paris. Napoleon was forced to abdicate. The Treaty of Fontainebleau on April 11 assigned Napoleon the Isle of Elba as his principality and he was given an annual pension of two million francs. In 1814, the governor of Elba, General Dalesme and his garrison were numbered less than 500. At the same time the mine in Rio was shut down because transportation of the minerals was impossible. The return of the few veterans of the Napoleonic war and the dispersal of the military of garrisons due to the uncertain climate created by the defeat and abdication of Napoleon fostered hostility towards the French. On April 1814, a dispatch arrived from the Minister of War Dupont to General Dalesme commander of the isle of Elba: This is to inform you that the unexpected events occurring within the French government have been the consequence of the abdication of Napoleon Bonaparte and for the arrival of the coming French Emperor, you will hand over the piazza at Portoferraio the moment he sets foot on the island.
Dalesme, worried about the reaction of the islanders, arrived to order the consignment of weapons, and even Napoleon, who on orders from Commander Usher landed with the frigate Undaunted on the shores of Elba May 3rd, was not sure what kind of welcome awaited him. He was preceded by a proclamation and sent a flag that he designed, based on a merchant flag of the Grand Duke that was white with a red band to which he added three gold bees. He also substituted the French cockade with another of differing colors. The Elbans greeted him with great enthusiasm. Napoleon disembarked at the pier in front of the Porta a Mare; he was given the keys to the city by Maria Traditi who, along with the authorities, accompanied him to the Parish where the mass Te Deum was celebrated by the vicar of the island, Monsignor Arrighi. After having settled in for several days in the uncomfortable setting of the Biscotteria (bakery) that was used as the seat of the administration. Napoleon decided to renovate some of the administrative buildings, situated between Fort Falcon and Fort Stella, for his various uses. And so was born the Villa die Mulini. He used the ground floor as his residence and the first floor held the reception room. The small theater next door was used as a room for playing cards and where a small orchestra and two singers could perform to an audience of upper class locals. Public festivals were organized with great success like that on August 16 with horse races, a ball, and fireworks.
Ville di Napoleone
LIFESTYLE
For his summer residence he readapted a house in the valley of San Martino near Portoferraio, but because of the hot climate, he only used it during the coolest periods. Nearby he set up a glass and ceramic factory that had a modest success. The climate in Madonna del Monte near Marciana proved to be healthier and it was here that he would discretely receive Maria Waleska and her son. Napoleon, in no position to alienate his father-in-law the Emperor of Austria always hoped for a visit from Maria Luisa.
Waiting for his pension that never arrived, Napoleon could only count on the meager earnings from the island. His plan to create blasts furnaces on Elba proved impractical. In compensation he took possession of the proceeds of the mines.
Collecting the taxes from the Elban citizens was not easy. In the case of Capoliveri, military intervention was necessary. At the moment of his departure, his personal finances were greatly reduced and he left behind a multitude of debts. The late or missed payment of salaries caused disorder and desertion amongst the soldiers some of whom were punished with confinement on the island of Pianosa that Napoleon had attempted to colonize. The maintenance of an army was burdensome and justified only by the fear of abduction by his enemies. A French and Corsican battalion was recruited and added to the Grenadiers of the Guard and to the Polish Lancers. The troops were assembled in a hurry and with effort. There were a little less than a thousand undisciplined but well armed men who cost more than a thousand francs. To them were added some isolated officials who out of nostalgia came to offer their use, like General Boinod, who was completely deaf and was named Inspector General of Inspections. Napoleon's staff officers consisted of Bertrand who was Minister of the Interior and Civic Affairs, Drouot who was Governor of the island, while Cambronne was Commander of the Guard. However, every decision was made by Napoleon in person. The Port of Portoferraio experienced an unusual liveliness. The influx of foreigners wishing to meet the governor was considerable and the great quantity of goods and provisions that were necessary to sustain the court and the military brought many to Portoferraio in search of a profit.
To Napoleon's pre-existing small fleet was added a brig (the Inconstant) and a rowboat belonging to the Undaunted. He requisitioned two feluccas, rechristened La Mouche and L'Abeille that were assigned the surveillance of the mines at Rio. A small cargo ship, never delivered, was ordered from the dockyards of Marciana and later a xebec, the Etrusco was acquisitioned and rechristened L'Etoile. For various reasons they had difficulty finding sufficient mariners for the small fleet (some came from Capraia and others from around Liguria. Napoleon acted as though he intended to remain on Elba, but warned that Congress, convened in Vienna on November 1st were planning to confine him elsewhere, he began plotting his escape, confidant that, once arrived in France, he would be supported by the army that had in great part remained faithful to him. And so with great caution on account of the many spies who were watching him, Napoleon began to prepare for his escape.
THE ESCAPE
On February 16, 1815, Napoleon wrote to General Douot: Give the order for the Brig to enter the dock and turn it around on its keel, shine it, seal the water ways, resurface the careening and everything else necessary for taking it to the sea. Have it painted as an English Brig. Everything shall be done in anticipation as if I were to arrive tomorrow. You will supply the Brig with biscuits, rise, legumes, cheese, half of the provisions in aquavit and the other half in wine, and enough water for 120 men for three weeks. As much salted meat to last for 15 days. You will ensure enough wood and that there is absolutely nothing lacking. I wish that from the 24th to the 25th of this month that everything will be as I have asked and ready at the anchorage. Napoleon then left secretly on February 26th after a Carnival Ball held at the Teatro dei Vigilanti that was created out of the deconsecrated church of Carmine and which still remains on Elba today. With English surveillance lapsing due to the absence of Colonel Campbell who had left for Livorno, the Brig Incostant, under the command of Captain Chautard set sail with Napoleon on board. It was armed with 18 canons. Normally it would have had a crew of 64, but given the circumstance, it had much less. The small fleet also included two schooners and a French two-masted sailing ship. 400 grenadiers were aboard the Incostant, 200 on the Etoille and the cavalry was aboard the Saint-Esprit, and 40 artillerymen and 300 Corsican hunters followed on other ships. One of the schooners acted as lookout. Out of precaution the destination was secret. The warships head separately towards the west so as not to look like a convoy. Campbell was none the wiser as he left the following day from Livorno on his way to Elba Island.
Storia Isola d'Elba